Včera nejasný plán, kam jet trénovat, a nejistota, jestli bude auto. Nakonec je auto opravené a venku nádherně, tak se razím vyvětrat na Ostaš a načerpat energii před svěťákem. Už dlouho je pěkné počasí, a tak by konečně mohl být suchý projekt - spojení na Velkém Střecháči. Při příchodu to vypadá dobře, jen ten nástupový spoďáček je vlhký. Po rozlezu jdu okouknout kroky a vše se tváří celkem dobře. Střílím ostrými a párkrát se mi podaří udělat klíčovou rozpažku, pak ale ulomím přídrž - co teď? Nevzdávám to a vymýšlím, nálet úplně zdola se nejprve nejeví moc reálně, ale postupně na to přicházím, až krok udělám. Dávám opět ostré pokusy, až to v jednom z nich vyjde, spojení Nesmrtelný Bond a klasa 8B/B+.
Nesmrtelný Bond 8B/B+
Dále jdu na Malý Střecháč, tréninkově prolezu bouldery Monster of Pop 7C a Luis je Monster 7C+. Nakouknu i do Master of Rock Direct za 8A, i když je díra u hrany jako vždy vlhká. Daří se mi udělat klíčový krok, ale pod hranou mi morál nedá a vždy jdu raději k zemi - přece jen se nechci před závodem zranit. Tak hurá do Meiringenu.
Master of Rock Direct 8A
Yesterday the planning was really fuzzy as I didn't know if I'd have the car, but in the end the car got repaired on time and the weather was beautiful, so I made a trip to Ostaš to get some fresh air and relax a bit before the World Cup. The weather has been good for some time already so I hoped the project (the link between boulders at Velký Střecháč) would finally be dry.
When I get there it looks good, just the undercling at the beginning is a bit moist. After the warm up I check the moves and I'm doing quite well so I start the serious attempts. Few times I manage to do the crux move with outstretched arms but then I break off one of the holds and don't know how to proceed. I don't give up, though, and make up a new move from below. At first it doesn't seem possible but gradually I figure it out and finish the move. So I try again and finally one of the attempts is successful - Nesmrtelný Bond 8B/B+.
I move to Malý Střecháč and climb Monster of Pop 7C and Luis je Monster 7C+ as a training. I also check Master of Rock Direct 8A, and even though the hole near the edge is still moist, I do the crux move. However, every time I find myself under the edge I get cold feet and jump down - better than getting injured before the World Cup. And now let's go to Meiringen!
When I get there it looks good, just the undercling at the beginning is a bit moist. After the warm up I check the moves and I'm doing quite well so I start the serious attempts. Few times I manage to do the crux move with outstretched arms but then I break off one of the holds and don't know how to proceed. I don't give up, though, and make up a new move from below. At first it doesn't seem possible but gradually I figure it out and finish the move. So I try again and finally one of the attempts is successful - Nesmrtelný Bond 8B/B+.
I move to Malý Střecháč and climb Monster of Pop 7C and Luis je Monster 7C+ as a training. I also check Master of Rock Direct 8A, and even though the hole near the edge is still moist, I do the crux move. However, every time I find myself under the edge I get cold feet and jump down - better than getting injured before the World Cup. And now let's go to Meiringen!
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